Lemon-Ginger Creme Fraiche Granita

I know I’ve mentioned Meyer lemons a couple of times lately, but I have yet another use of them to show today. This year, my trees gave me enough lemons to have some fun with a few different recipes. This granita from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks, of which I received a review copy, got my attention because I’d never made a granita with dairy in it. The book is all about using excellent, fresh dairy products and a variety of cheeses in delicious ways. Sue Conley and Peggy Smith have written about their careers in food, starting Tomales Bay Foods in Point Reyes which spotlights products from area dairies and farms, and then becoming cheesemakers themselves. They use organic milk from nearby Straus Family Creamery. It was interesting to learn about how their cheeses are made in comparison to classic cheesemaking techniques. Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam is started in the same way Gouda is made, but the result is a very different cheese. And, their Red Hawk cheese began as a washed-rind version of Mt. Tam. At the beginning of the book, there are tips for planning a cheese course with suggestions for different flights of cheese. Right away, I wanted to taste what I was reading about and headed to Antonelli’s Cheese Shop with the book in hand. Of course, they had everything I needed for a great cheese tasting including Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Red Hawk and a good goat Gouda for comparison. Beyond cheese courses, the book also includes recipes for Fresh Cheeses, Soft Young Aged Cheeses, Aged Cheeses, Grating Cheeses, Blue Cheeses, and more. The Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt. Tam would be perfect right now, and when corn comes back into season, I can’t wait to try the Crookneck Squash and Corn Soup with Humboldt Fog. There are instructions for making your own Fromage Blanc and then suggestions for flavoring it for various spreads. I've already tried the Grilled Mozzarella and Olive Salad Sandwich with a fresh, local mozzarella and can highly recommend it. 

Next, I wanted to taste the granita with dairy. Both Meyer lemon zest and juice were used. Some candied ginger was finely minced and added to the lemon zest, juice, and some sugar, and the mixture was brought to a simmer for a few minutes. Creme fraiche and milk were added along with two whole basil stems. I made this a couple of weeks ago before my basil plants succumbed to the cold weather we’ve had lately, and if you don't have basil on hand, it will still be great without it. The basil steeped in the milk mixture until it was completely cool before it was removed. Then, as with any granita, the liquid was poured into a shallow dish and placed in the freezer. Every 45 minutes or so, the surface was scraped with a fork to form crystals. 

The flavor was floral, lemony, tart, and rich. The dairy made it more crumbly than icy. And, I loved the snowy look of the granita scooped into dessert bowls. This book is great inspiration for seeking out small-batch, well-made dairy and cheese products, and it’s the perfect book for anyone who loves cheese. 

Lemon-Ginger Creme Fraiche Granita 
Recipe reprinted with publisher's permission from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks.

Serves 6 to 8 

Tangy, creamy, and yet still light, this granita doesn’t require an ice-cream machine. You just need a stainless-steel pan or liner and a fork to scrape up the ice crystals every hour or so. A glass container will work as well, although liquid freezes faster in stainless steel. A pan that measures 9 by 9 in/23 by 23 cm or 13 by 9 in/33 by 23 cm is large enough so the liquid is relatively shallow. Use Meyer lemons for this if you can get them, but it’s good made with any juicy lemon. 

1/4 cup (60 ml) Freshly squeezed lemon juice 
1 tsp Finely minced lemon zest 
1 tsp Finely minced candied ginger 
1/4 cup (50 g) Sugar 
1 cup (240 ml) Creme fraiche 
1 cup (240 ml) Milk (whole or low-fat) 
 2 Big whole stems of basil 

Combine the lemon juice, lemon zest, candied ginger, and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and let it cook for about 2 minutes. Taste the liquid. The heat will neutralize the lemon’s acidity so the juice doesn’t taste so puckery and so it doesn’t curdle the milk. Pour in the creme fraiche and milk. Rub the whole basil stems between your hands to release the oils and add them to the mixture. Let steep in the warm liquid until completely cool. 

Remove the basil from the liquid and discard. Pour the liquid into a shallow stainless-steel pan, cover well with plastic wrap, and place it in the freezer. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, use a fork to scrape up the frozen crystals. Replace the plastic wrap and put the pan back in the freezer. An hour later, scrape again. Do this four times, and then spoon the granita into small bowls to serve or cover well with plastic wrap and store in the freezer. Fluff the granita with a fork just before serving. This delicate frozen dessert is best served the day you make it. 

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