Saturday, October 3, 2015

Crispy Haloumi Cheese with Dates, Walnuts, and Apples

Sometimes new cookbooks don’t draw me in right away. I might need to read a few pages to get a feel for the style of cooking in the book, and eventually I start getting excited about the dishes. That was not the case with Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking. My first look inside the review copy I received had me completely intrigued. The colorful, vibrant salads and vegetables dishes, the various rice dishes and pilafs, and skewers of grilled chicken and salmon with flavorful marinades left no doubts that I’d enjoy this book. Zahav, the restaurant, opened in Philadelphia in 2008, and this book presents the mix of dishes from the menus over the years. Chef Michael Solomonov writes that these dishes “make an impression of a cuisine that is evolving.” They reflect an idea of Israeli cooking, but at times, traditional approaches are changed to accommodate what’s available and in season at the restaurant. I like this thought of the food giving a sense of a culture and a place and not sticking too strictly to original versions. I learned that “tehina” is the same thing as “tahini,” and it’s invaluable in Israeli cooking. It’s used to add richness without the use of cream or butter for keeping kosher. It’s used in hummus, of course, but also in many other applications both sweet and savory. For instance, there’s a vegetable dish in which cooked green beans are mixed with sauteed mushrooms and tehina sauce and then topped with lentils and crispy garlic. I’m noting that for my Thanksgiving menu. One recipe I already tried was the Latke with Gravlax. It’s one big latke made in a skillet and turned in one solid piece. There’s no onion, flour, or egg, just grated potatoes cooked in oil. It was simple, crispy, and delicious. The vegetable-filled borekas are similar to turnovers and are made with a dough kind of like puff pastry, and I want to try them all. I also want to attempt making laffa flatbread. The recipes in the book quickly caught my attention, but so did the writing. Solomonov shares his stories about living in Isreal at different times and his training as a chef. There are interesting historical insights like the fact that Israeli couscous was first made as a wheat-based substitute for rice when there was a rice shortage. And, there are explanations about the mix of cultures that make up Israel and how the food represents many different origins. There’s so much to appreciate here from the Pumpkin Broth with Fideos soup to the Chocolate Babka served with cardamom-flavored Turkish Coffee Ice Cream. 

I’ve been making use of our fall fruits in salads like arugula with pears, gorgonzola, and pecans and mixed greens with apples, pecans, and goat cheese. I can’t get enough of the mix of sweet, tart, nutty, and salty. With these flavors already on my mind, I had to try the Crispy Haloumi Cheese with Dates, Walnuts, and Apples recipe. And, I can never resist a dish with haloumi. Pitted dates, toasted walnuts, olive oil, sherry vinegar, pinches of salt, and some hot water were combined in a food processor and pureed until smooth. This paste formed the base of the dish. Next, cubes of haloumi were sauteed in oil until golden on all sides. These were set on top of the date paste. Last, an apple was cut into matchsticks, and I used a Benriner, and those little sticks were perched on top of the haloumi. Dill and Urfa pepper were sprinkled on top to finish the dish. 

In the head note for this recipe, it’s mentioned that this dish cannot be taken off the menu at the restaurant because it is so well-loved. I can understand completely. This is such a good mix of textures and flavors, and haloumi works its magic when paired with something a little sweet like the dates here. And, crisp, fresh apple brightens the combination. Now, I need go shop for fideos to try that soup I mentioned, and I really want to attempt making Persian rice and about 20 other recipes as well. 

Crispy Haloumi Cheese with Dates, Walnuts, and Apples 
Recipe reprinted with publisher’s permission from Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking

Serves 4 

1 cup roughly chopped dried dates 
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped 
1/3 cup olive oil 
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 
Kosher salt 
Canola oil 
8 ounces haloumi cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes 
1 apple, peeled and cut into matchsticks 
Chopped fresh dill 
1/2 teaspoon ground Urfa pepper 

Combine the dates, walnuts, olive oil, vinegar, a couple pinches of salt, and 1/2 cup hot water in a food processor and puree until smooth. Set the date paste aside. 

Film a skillet with canola oil and heat over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering but not smoking. Arrange the cheese cubes in a single layer in the skillet and cook, turning, until the exteriors are golden and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. 

Spread the date paste over the bottom of a serving plate and add the fried haloumi. Top with the apple, dill, and Urfa pepper, and serve immediately. 

I am a member of the Amazon Affiliate Program.

16 comments:

  1. This sounds outstanding! Totally intrigued by the date paste and cheese combo.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I love that date walnut sauce base!

    ReplyDelete
  3. A fabulous dish and haevenly flavour combination!

    Cheers,

    Rosa

    ReplyDelete
  4. Love this take on haloumi cheese, I've been on a date kick lately, adding it to many dishes and even smoothies....

    definitely saving this one..... I've been using a site called "Copy Me That" to save recipes online, it's easy and I like the format

    ReplyDelete
  5. Sounds like a very good combination of flavors!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi Lisa, what a sophisticated dish, love everything about it.

    ReplyDelete
  7. A splendid recipe to welcome fall! The sprinkle of dill reminds me of my end of summer garden, while the apple and haloumi speak to the shorter days that are coming our way. Thank you for the intro to a cookbook I would have passed over!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I do love a dish that's so popular it has to stay on the menu. Like you, I can never resist a dish with haloumi. This looks very special xx

    ReplyDelete
  9. i'm really eager to try haloumi, and every piece of this preparation sounds wonderful! pretty easy on the eyes too. :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. I love haloumi, and that cookbook (and restaurant) sounds fantastic. Your haloumi cubes have the most lovely color!

    ReplyDelete
  11. I'm a huge halloumi fan and I've really enjoyed the Israeli food that I've tried. There are a few places that serve it here and it is so fresh and vibrant! :D

    ReplyDelete
  12. I can definitely see why they'd never take this off the menu -- what a super dish! Halloumi is so good, although not something I use all that often. Gotta change that, starting with this recipe. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  13. looks very delicious, thanks for sharing

    ReplyDelete
  14. what delicious !! I really love dates in recipes!!

    ReplyDelete
  15. I love halloumi, I bet it tastes amazing with the sweet dates.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Oh what a beautiful dish! I love that it is made with haloumi and thus vegetarian. I must check out this book - I love the flavors of Israeli cooking and this dish is simple but spectacular. And unusual.

    ReplyDelete

Blogging tips