I have a little problem. I'm addicted to cookbooks, food writing, recipe collecting, and cooking. I have a lot of recipes waiting for me to try them, and ideas from articles, tv, and restaurants often lead to new dishes. I started losing track of what I've done. So now I'm taking photos and writing about what I've prepared—unless it's terrible in which case I forget it ever happened.
I wasn't lying when I said I'd be making pistachio gelato soon. Now, I'm thinking I need a bigger ice cream maker because frozen treats like this one never seem to last long. The recipe is from the book The Country Cooking of Italy, and true to traditional gelato-making, it’s lower in butterfat and sugar than ice cream. In the book, there’s a brief story about the arrival of sorbets and gelatos in Italy and a mention of ice cream sandwiches. It was in Sicily where gelato was first scooped into a brioche roll and was typically eaten that way in the morning. Why have I never had gelato in brioche for breakfast, and how soon can I change that? In describing gelato, Andrews writes: “(it) has a distinctive texture, creamy but sometimes faintly grainy.” With this pistachio gelato, that was definitely true. It’s made with pistachio flour which I could have ordered online, but instead, I ground whole pistachios in a food processor. I sifted the ground pistachios, but I suspect a purchased pistachio flour would have been a little finer. So, yes, my pistachio gelato was slightly grainy, but what struck me most about it was how rich and creamy tasting it was considering that there were no eggs and no cream.
If you’re able to find pistachio flour, then by all means, use it. But, grinding pistachios in a food processor is an easy task. As I mentioned, I sifted the ground pistachios before using them. One cup of the sifted ground pistachios was used, and that was placed in a big measuring pitcher and set aside. This particular gelato was thickened with corn starch. So, cornstarch and sugar were placed in a heat-proof bowl with some milk, and the mixture was whisked to combine. More milk was heated to a simmer in a saucepan, and the cornstarch mixture was whisked into it. That mixture was heated, while stirring, until it thickened which took about ten minutes. The thickened milk mixture was then poured over the ground pistachios while whisking. This was left to cool and then refrigerated overnight. The next morning, the pistachio mixture was poured through a sieve before being poured into the ice cream maker.
The flavor was completely pistachio, and I loved that plenty of green remained in the mixture after straining out the ground nuts. This does freeze very firm, so it’s best to move it from the freezer to the refrigerator about an hour before you plan to scoop it. Then, it’s surprisingly velvety and rich-tasting for what a simple concoction it is.
Despite the fact that everything is supposed to be bigger in Texas, Texas-grown peaches are kind of small. I would argue, however, that their flavor is very big. Not many other fruits compare to a perfectly ripe peach. I mentioned the other day that I’d been reading Farmers' Market Desserts, and most of the recipes in that book include suggestions for alternate fruits. There’s a dessert called grilled fig sundaes with balsamic fudge, and I took note of the suggestion to use peaches or plums instead when in season as I had just received some peaches from my CSA. Whichever type of fruit is used, each piece is cut in half and skewered onto a rosemary sprig and grilled. The fruit skewers only remain on the grill long enough to soften and brown in spots and take on some smokiness. And, the fruit is only one part of this dessert. There’s also ice cream which is a natural with warm fruit, and then there’s the sauce. This is no old-fashioned, ice cream parlor kind of sauce. It’s a tangy, sweet reduction of red wine, balsamic vinegar, and sugar, and it makes this a sundae with grown-up flavor.
I’m sure both figs and plums would work very well for grilling. The peaches I used were nicely ripe which means they were a little tender and had to be pierced and skewered carefully. The pieces of fruit didn’t stay in place very well on the rosemary sprigs. They tended to flip around the stem and would have been difficult to turn on the grill. To fix that issue, I also pushed a wooden skewer through the fruit behind each rosemary sprig. With two skewers in place, the fruit stayed put and was easy to turn. To start, you should soak your skewers in water so they won’t burn on the grill even though any rosemary leaves left on the ends will catch the flame regardless. Meanwhile, you can begin the sauce. Good balsamic vinegar, red wine, and sugar, and the amount of sugar depends on whether you’re using a dry wine or a sweet, dessert wine, were stirred together in a saucepan. Over a bare simmer, that mixture was left to reduce by half which took about 15 minutes. It thickened as it cooled. Then, the fruit was brushed with olive oil, seasoned, and grilled for a few minutes per side, and the timing will depend on how hot your grill is. The goal is to just allow the fruit to soften and begin to brown. I served the grilled fruit and sauce with vanilla gelato, and I always follow the recipe from Demolition Desserts. It includes only two eggs and is made with more milk than cream making it slightly lighter than other vanilla ice cream recipes I sometimes use.
Savory flavors from the grill smoke and rosemary challenged the sweetness of the peaches and gelato in a delicious way. Likewise, the sauce was a mix of sweet and tart, rather than just sweet, which nudged the taste of the gelato in the direction of cheesecake. Plain, ripe, summer peaches are a pleasure, but if you’d like to dress up a few of them for dessert, I highly recommend this sundae.
When I started using my new ice cream maker, I pretty much wanted to make every frozen concoction I could imagine all at once. Plain ice cream was quickly followed by ice cream sandwiches with a chocolaty sundae coming right after that. As I read the Demolition Desserts' recipe for vanilla gelato which I used in those ice cream sandwiches, I saw the note at the side of the page: “make a tin roof sundae with dark chocolate sauce (page 207) and salted Spanish peanuts.” Thank you, yes, I believe I will was my response. Throughout this book, there are helpful tips, suggestions, and added information in the sidebars, and I appreciate that each topic is thoroughly covered. For instance, on page 207 with the dark chocolate sauce recipe, there are more notes about how this sauce could be used as a filling for cupcakes, or as a warm sauce served with homemade graham crackers and marshmallows, or as a drizzled sauce over cakes, ice cream sandwiches, or bare skin. I didn’t make that up; it’s part of the list. There’s also a note about making this as milk chocolate sauce rather than dark chocolate. Despite the book’s focus on somewhat complicated, plated desserts, there is a lot to gain from learning the techniques for each component of those desserts. And, rather than preparing the desserts exactly as presented, the components can be used in simpler ways just as this sauce is being used here for a sundae.
There are two types of chocolate flavor in this sauce. First, 70% cacao bittersweet chocolate was melted with a combination of heated cream and honey. Then, cocoa powder was heated with water and whisked until thick. The cocoa mixture was added to the chocolate-cream mixture and whisked to combine. Butter and salt were added to finish the sauce. The result was a thick, full-flavored chocolate sauce with a nice shine. It can be refrigerated for a week, but it does harden when chilled. There are instructions for re-heating by placing the bowl of sauce into a larger bowl of warm water, but I found that removing it from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before I plan to use it gave it enough time to soften to a spoonable state.
The luscious sauce poured over freshly made vanilla gelato and topped with salty peanuts was a very fine version of this classic sundae. All the contrasts, cold ice cream and warm sauce, oozy sauce and crunchy peanuts, sweet ice cream and salty nuts, make it what it is. One more classic ice cream treat has been re-created at home, and now there are only about a thousand others I’m looking forward to attempting next.
I am proud and excited to announce that I am now the owner of an ice cream maker. No longer do I have to look longingly at all the ice cream, sorbet, and frozen yogurt recipes I see. No more will I read about them and think, well, some day. Having an ice cream maker during the heat of the summer is turning out to be a terrific thing, but I suspect I’ll be using it regularly throughout the whole year. I chose the Cuisinart model, just like the one Ina uses, because it’s small enough that I should be able to find a place to store it in my tiny kitchen. I’ve been using it almost constantly since I got it, but if I ever need to store it, I’m sure I’ll find a place. For my first use of the new machine, I followed Michel Roux’s recipe which includes one batch of creme anglaise and then some added cream. Six egg yolks were involved, and at the end of the churning time, I added some fresh cherries. It was a rich, creamy, and decadent cherry-vanilla ice cream. That was a great test run, and next, I decided to try the vanilla gelato found in Demolition Desserts. In the book, Elizabeth Falkner explains that she prefers a pronounced salt flavor in her vanilla gelato. So after the custard base is chilled, salt is added until you can taste it.
To begin the custard, two egg yolks were whisked with cornstarch. In a saucepan, milk, sugar, corn syrup, and seeds from one half of a vanilla bean were heated just to a boil and then used to temper the eggs. The mixture was returned to the saucepan and heated for a few minutes. This custard base was then chilled in a measuring pitcher set in a bowl of ice water. Once cool, a cup of cream was added along with salt to taste. After the finished mixture was chilled in the refrigerator for an hour, it was churned into gelato.
As soon as I got the ice cream maker home, I started thinking about what kind of cookies to use for ice cream sandwiches. I considered going with a big, thin chocolate chip cookie or maybe a chewy molasses number. I’ll get to those options in time, but for my first ever homemade ice cream sandwiches, I finally decided on the chocolate malt cookies from Martha Stewart's Cookies. They are intended as a sandwich cookie in the book, I just replaced the chocolate malt filling with vanilla gelato. The cookies themselves are made with cocoa powder, malted milk powder, vanilla, and creme fraiche. They have a great texture which is a little crunchy on the edges and slightly chewy in the center, and they worked really well in ice cream sandwiches.
The interesting thing about assembling the sandwiches is that the ice cream needs to be soft enough to spread on the cookies, but you need to finish putting them together before the ice cream melts. This was tricky. I let the gelato soften in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes, and then, as I finished each sandwich, I popped it directly into the freezer. I felt a little bad that I wasn’t able to make the sandwiches more gorgeous given the speed required to finish them in my warmish kitchen. They may not have looked perfect, but they tasted incredible with the hint of salt flavor in the gelato and the rich chocolate maltedness of the cookies. Not too bad for a first try. Stay tuned for more ice cream treats to appear here in the coming days and weeks.
, and true to traditional gelato-making, it’s lower in butterfat and sugar than ice cream. In the book, there’s a brief story about the arrival of sorbets and gelatos in Italy and a mention of ice cream sandwiches. It was in Sicily where gelato was first scooped into a brioche roll and was typically eaten that way in the morning. Why have I never had gelato in brioche for breakfast, and how soon can I change that? In describing gelato, Andrews writes: “(it) has a distinctive texture, creamy but sometimes faintly grainy.” With this pistachio gelato, that was definitely true. It’s made with pistachio flour which I could have ordered online, but instead, I ground whole pistachios in a food processor. I sifted the ground pistachios, but I suspect a purchased pistachio flour would have been a little finer. So, yes, my pistachio gelato was slightly grainy, but what struck me most about it was how rich and creamy tasting it was considering that there were no eggs and no cream.
. It includes only two eggs and is made with more milk than cream making it slightly lighter than other vanilla ice cream recipes I sometimes use.
There are two types of chocolate flavor in this sauce. First, 70% cacao bittersweet chocolate was melted with a combination of heated cream and honey. Then, cocoa powder was heated with water and whisked until thick. The cocoa mixture was added to the chocolate-cream mixture and whisked to combine. Butter and salt were added to finish the sauce. The result was a thick, full-flavored chocolate sauce with a nice shine. It can be refrigerated for a week, but it does harden when chilled. There are instructions for re-heating by placing the bowl of sauce into a larger bowl of warm water, but I found that removing it from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before I plan to use it gave it enough time to soften to a spoonable state.
The luscious sauce poured over freshly made vanilla gelato and topped with salty peanuts was a very fine version of this classic sundae. All the contrasts, cold ice cream and warm sauce, oozy sauce and crunchy peanuts, sweet ice cream and salty nuts, make it what it is. One more classic ice cream treat has been re-created at home, and now there are only about a thousand others I’m looking forward to attempting next.
As soon as I got the ice cream maker home, I started thinking about what kind of cookies to use for ice cream sandwiches. I considered going with a big, thin chocolate chip cookie or maybe a chewy molasses number. I’ll get to those options in time, but for my first ever homemade ice cream sandwiches, I finally decided on the chocolate malt cookies from 
The interesting thing about assembling the sandwiches is that the ice cream needs to be soft enough to spread on the cookies, but you need to finish putting them together before the ice cream melts. This was tricky. I let the gelato soften in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes, and then, as I finished each sandwich, I popped it directly into the freezer. I felt a little bad that I wasn’t able to make the sandwiches more gorgeous given the speed required to finish them in my warmish kitchen. They may not have looked perfect, but they tasted incredible with the hint of salt flavor in the gelato and the rich chocolate maltedness of the cookies. Not too bad for a first try. Stay tuned for more ice cream treats to appear here in the coming days and weeks.